How Italian Cured Meats Are Made
Mortadella. It gets its name from the way it was traditionally made 500 years ago, ground
in a mortar until the texture is silky smooth. Monks did the grinding. Because it comes from Bologna, Americans mispronounced it as "baloney". But Mortadella is the real thing; it's no phony baloney. Sopressata is another type of salame. It has a distinctive color, deep red and luscious looking. We carry the spicy kind, with chili pepper added. As with all of our other meats, Sopressata is made with premium pork. After it is spiced, it is carefully cured for three or four months. Prosciutto Crudo is a cured, not cooked masterpiece. The salting and air drying take more than a year to work their magic. This is a DOP ham, made in only a few provinces in northern Italy, and is carefully controlled. Prosciutto Crudo is called The Food of Poets because its flavor is so extraordinary that more than one bard has been moved to create a poem in its honor. Nobles used to demand that people pay taxes in prosciutto instead of money. Bishops used to have it transported under armed guard; generals hoarded it for themselves. Prosciutto Cotto is a spiced, cooked ham. The fat is trimmed. The bone is removed. Then a brine and spice mixture is massaged (by machines not humans) into the meat. This process takes days. Finally, the ham is steamed or baked. This is nothing like the hams Americans are used to, because Italian hams are not encrusted with sugar. Recently, a television cooking show host prepared a ham by cooking it in Dr Pepper soda. He said that you could use this ham just the way you would use prosciutto. We beg to differ. Bresaola is made from lean cuts of meat from cattle that graze in alpine pastures. The cuts of meat that can be used are defined by law. Bresaola means "braised", even though it is dry cured. The spice mixture usually includes garlic, black pepper, and cinnamon. Bresaola is cured in a different way from other salumi -- it is agitated to make sure that the spices penetrate deep into the meat. Then it is air dried for months. This produces a very special concentrated, low-fat, high-protein, meat. The flavor becomes complex and intense; it is often described as "incomparable". Speck -- A Triple Threat To say that Speck is a special type of Italian ham is like saying that Enrico Caruso could carry a tune. For Americans, the word "ham" usually means a bland sliced deli meat. But Speck has so much more flavor, because it is processed three ways. After the bone is removed, the ham spends about two weeks bathing in a brine spiced with garlic and juniper berries. Then it is smoked, but at very low temperatures, never above 68 F. After that, it is hung to dry in cool air for almost half a year. Speck comes from northeastern Italy, where the spectacular Dolomite Mountains are. The province was at one time part of Austria, so it has two official languages, Italian and German. It Italian, the region is called the Alto Adige. To German-speaking people, it is the South Tyrol. The production of Speck dates back to at least the 1200s. |